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Another veteran bar and restaurant team has decided to take up shop in South Philly this week. Leigh Maida, Brendan Hartranft and Brendan Kelly, the group behind beer centric standouts Local 44 and Strangelove’s, have secured a lease for the former Mildred space at Eight and Christian streets. Maida and Hartranft also helm Kensington outpost Memphis Taproom, which is not only home to Philly’s best fried pickles but was one of the city’s first bars to ace the beer garden concept.
Dubbed Coeur, which means “heart” in French, the trio’s site promises to deliver a “classic, back-to-basics menu a la Montreal in a cozy and casual neighborhood setting.” Beyond that, details about the concept are slowly trickling out with some being given and others coming with a bit of mysterious allure. Here is a list of a few things that can be expected based on what we know, what we’ve heard and what’s been learned from the triumvirate’s previous endeavors.
Beer, beer and beer
Without question, craft beer will be a large part of the equation at Coeur. The group itself has already promised a “heavy dedication to the craft beer scene” and that “both craft beer and wine will flow from the taps.” Both are welcome declarations that confirmed a well-known fact — this group loves craft beer.
Local 44 boasts a bottle shop with more than 500 offerings while Strangelove’s hits the other end of the spectrum in that its list of 20 drafts runs the gambit from stalwart local crafts to national or international gems. Memphis Taproom takes the quality-not-quantity approach as well, lining up a draft list that is diverse but always approachable. Beer drinkers should be excited about Coeur.
The space is top-notch
Exposed brick, high-vaulted ceiling and a fireplace stand out as elegant touches currently in place. Whether they will be altered or improved upon remains to be seen, but the pieces are there. Bamboo floors stand out as well, and the bar area (pictured) is of considerable size.
The space is equipped to seat at least 50, with additional seating at the bar. It is unlikely that major renovations will take place given that the relative readiness of the location was definitely a draw, meaning diners can expect a restaurant that is intimate with some room to breathe as well.
Settling in to the neighborhood is key
James and The Mildred, the two previous tenants, never quite got into a groove with the locals despite largely strong reviews from critics. Maida, Hartranft, and Kelly have been known to be open and resourceful. Each of their previous spaces enjoys common denominators that fuel success — passionately curated drink lists, friendly, sometimes quirky service and plates ranging from comfort food to creative vegan — while incorporating touches that feel at home where they stand.
Their beer bar in Kensington lacks pretension and jives with the area’s influx of young people but works as a dinner space as well. In West Philly Local 44 gives off an exciting, fun vibe that will draw in Penn’s upperclassmen but maintains a drinking expertise that will bring in professors as well. To be successful in Bella Vista, Coeur will have to walk similar types of lines, appealing to the discerning drinker and diner alike.
Contact the South Philly Review at editor@southphillyreview.com.
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