Cousin’s Grubhouse

May 8, 2014

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Like baseball and jazz, Sunday brunch has become a tradition in America. It is almost unheard of in other countries. The options for this meal run the gamut from coffee and a croissant to high end fancy buffets served in hotels. There is always a line at Sabrina’s, Morning Glory, The Side Car and Hawthorne’s, and I have never been disappointed with my meal at these South Philly restaurants.

While browsing the Internet I came upon Cousin’s Grubhouse. It has been a luncheonette for many years so a visit was in order. I like good, old-fashioned luncheonettes because they remind me of my childhood and the comfort foods that kept me happy.

The space is bright and airy with an enticing case filled with sweets, a long counter, tables and chairs and blackboard specials. The weekend brunch menu includes breakfast and lunch selections.

We sat at the counter, discussed our options while we waited for the Flyer’s game to begin. Big mugs of steaming, hot, strong coffee kept me company as I decided what I wanted.

I ordered the Grubhouse breakfast ($8) while Edward wanted a cheese omelette ($7.50). My breakfast came with a choice of French toast or pancakes. I never make pancakes at home because they always turn out looking funny and not tasting very good.

Our server took good care of the couple next to us and a man who was finishing a good looking burger with tater tots. She told us the pancakes were being made fresh to order and surprised us with a delicious treat. She gave us a slice of espresso ricotta cheesecake nested into a crumbly graham cracker crust and topped with tiny bits of chocolate. Oh, be still my heart. This obviously homemade delight went well with coffee.

I always ordered gently scrambled eggs. I prefer them golden and glistening, but these looked strange. The eggs were not beaten properly so the whites formed long strings, and the yolks had a funny tinge to them. The eggs were fried into curds and overcooked. Some people have trouble cooking eggs properly. But the two large, fluffy cakes that came out piping hot and ready for butter and syrup were really tasty. They were topped with too much powdered sugar that I simply scraped it off. The butter melted, the syrup was room temperature and all was right with the world. Four strips of crisp bacon made me forget the eggs.

Omelettes can be tricky. You will get a diner-style flat omelette at Grubhouse with a choice of two fillings. Edward asked for cheddar cheese and a side of sausages. His kibitzing as he ordered turned the sausages into a filling for the omelette. No matter. Although the eggs were slightly brown on the outside, they were not rubbery. I turned my attention to the tater tots. Jones on Chestnut Street makes them from scratch and are a true culinary wonder. I am not sure whether the ones served at Grubhouse are homemade, but they were uncommonly good. Crisp and brown on the outside and still a bit creamy inside. We found them to be slightly salty but good nonetheless.

Since the espresso ricotta cheesecake was so delicious, I toted home a white chocolate cherry muffin ($3) and a coconut cupcake ($2). The muffin was prepared with slightly sweet dried cherries which was a fine choice. The cupcake was just as good. It was a vanilla cake, flecked with tiny bits of chocolate, iced with a creamy not-at-all-sweet frosting and dusted with flaked coconut.

Grubhouse serves breakfast and lunch. Because the burger looked so tempting, I must try one since I am doing research for a burger column.

Two-and-a-half tips of the toque to Cousin’s Grubhouse.