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Costume design is the most important and recognized component of any Mummers’ theme. It is the planning of four to 10 costumes that will be the visual portion of the presentation to the judges.
Theme committees know that if the costume is something the member will wear with pride, he also will perform in a like manner. The costume design is what transforms the blue-collar South Philadelphian into a thespian.
All clubs have a theme of commonality regardless of the division, and that is the costume. It is the visual component that can be compared to the sound of the String Band Division. And it starts with the costume design.
Groups will say that they selected a theme simply based on the beauty of the costumes. Every year in the brigades and string bands someone will select a Native American or jungle theme, which transfers most easily to a beautiful Mummers’ costume. It’s all about the feathers and colors.
Since 1901, costume design always has been the centerpiece to any Mummers’ theme. There was a time when the members and their families handmade all of the costumes. Any discussion with longtime Mummers usually will include stories of how they improvised to make costumes as cheap as possible. For example, crushed light bulbs provided the glitter to costumes and props. Large decorating mirrors in homes were known to disappear in December of each year. It’s all true.
As with all of the Mummer categories (music, choreography, float building, etc.), costume design has evolved over the years. Unfortunately, in the world of Mummers’ evolution, it has equated to an increase in cost. By the ’60s, professionals made most of the costumes. The increased was cost passed on partly to the membership and was paid from increased income from prize money and TV revenue. The latter portion would eventually come back to bite all organizations as costs continued to escalate as costumes became more elaborate and versatile.
There were discussions dating back at least 30 years of how to control the costs, but the screams of January became whispers once theme planning and the competition heated up. While winning had much to do with it, every organization also wanted to look good, like a Mummer should.
Eventually a lethal combination of escalating costs and dwindling revenue brought changes to this important judged component for all of the divisions. The bite hit hard with the loss of prize money and lower TV revenue. Just to survive, all of the Mummer organizations were forced to find ways to reduce their largest cost — costumes.
There were rules in the string bands and fancy brigades that required all of the costumes to be new or the group would face disqualification. In the last five years, both divisions have done away with what was once unthinkable, changing their rules to now allow used (or as they say in the car business “pre-owned”) costumes. The transition has not been easy.
In order to keep up with escalating costs and loss of revenue, clubs have raised dues and assessments on their membership. It makes it a hard sell to then tell a member they will be wearing a “used” costume. I believe in order to survive in today’s financial environment, all groups must look to this cost-saving option for at least every few years.
To reflect this change in costuming, the points allotted to the beauty of costume category have been reduced. In the fancy brigades, the costume once accounted for 70 percent of the overall score (30 percent for presentation). In ’91, that number was reduced to 50 percent of the overall score, and three years ago, it was reduced to 40 percent. For the first time, it is no longer at least half of the overall score, but still makes up the highest percentage of the three categories (performances and production each count for 30 percent of the total).
So the challenge is set for how to do more with less. Costume design will always be the staple of the Mummers as people come out particularly to see the amazing costumes. Just watch the fancy clubs and one will see the biggest and most elaborate costumes in any division.
The ingenuity that has kept the Mummers vibrant for more than 113 years (officially) is needed now more than ever. We must find a way to keep costume design at a level that will make Mummers proud and our fan base stare in awe.
Sometimes it is best to remember where one came from when moving forward. For the Mummers, that may include the return of some homemade costumes (i.e. South Philly Vikings — 2010 champs theme) as part of the overall presentation.
A word to the wise as we move in this direction: Hide the light bulbs!
For more information, visit fancybrigade.com.
Jim Julia is the president of the Philadelphia Mummers Fancy Brigade Association.
Contact the South Philly Review at editor@southphillyreview.com
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