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Before I developed a taste for the classic gin martini, I saw a television program set in London during the Roaring ’20s. A rich debutant sporting a snazzy short bob and fabulous flapper dress was shown smoking a cigarette in a long, fashionable holder while sipping a Sidecar. I had to try one. This classic cocktail, which was born during World War I, is made with brandy, Triple Sec or Cointreau and limejuice. I liked it instantly.
The Sidecar Bar & Grille is South Philly’s newest restaurant. Located on the corner of 22nd and Christian streets, the place has become a lively neighborhood spot that serves comfort food and good drink.
The Sidecar was filled when Edward and I came in from the cold. We slid onto comfortable barstools, chatted with the bartender, watched the sports scores on TV and discussed the menu.
What was offered was run-of-the-mill bar fare, such as nachos, wings and quesadillas. But we always try to find something a little different from the usual pub grub. We sipped well-made martinis ($7) and found a number of dishes to sample.
Dusted calamari ($8) was made with squid rings, which were rather tender. They were coated with seasoned flour and quick fried to a light golden brown. The menu stated the squid was tossed with grape tomatoes, pepperoncini and balsamic reduction. Whenever I see balsamic vinegar on a menu, a red light goes on. Unless a cook uses the top-quality variety, the sauce, in my opinion, will taste dreadful. So, we asked the bartender for "sauce on the side." Edward and I could not detect any red pepper, but the bowl did contain some grape tomatoes and a bit of spring mix that detracted from the taste of the squid.
Next up was an order of mac and cheese ($2.50 small, $4 large), which could have been hotter. Edward and I liked the crispy topping, but prefer a creamy mac and cheese. Still, the Sidecar’s version was warm and comforting.
The cranberry walnut salad fared much better. A good-size mound of bits of romaine were tossed with spring mix and topped with dried cranberries, diced cucumbers, candied walnuts and a light vinaigrette. Each ingredient was immaculately fresh. The combination of tastes and textures was a delight.
We then decided to sample a "toastie," the Sidecar’s version of a pannini. These Italian sandwiches are always made on French or Italian bread and pressed on a pannini grill before serving. Edward and I particularly liked the toastie made with spicy chorizo sausage, cheddar cheese and fried onions ($6.50). Chorizo is from Spain and Portugal and truly hit the mark in this sandwich. When properly grilled, it gets nice and crisp on the outside. The portion was generous and came with freshly made french fries and homemade coleslaw.
The Angus burger ($5.50) was a disappointment, though. It was square, flat and lacked flavor as it was a bit dry. One look and I knew it was once frozen. It came with french fries and coleslaw.
We liked the onion rings ($4), however. A generous portion arrived of the freshly made, quick-fried rings that were crisp and crunchy on the outside and juicy on the inside.
During dinner, I struck up a conversation with the man next to me. He was speaking with the owner. The three of us talked about cooking and restaurants. The owner told me the Sidecar has been open for a few months and he has been keeping track of the dishes served. He told me the hamburger patties are frozen, but that this may change. The menu may evolve as time goes by because pleasing the customer is top priority.
To end our meal, Edward and I wanted a slice of the Jewish apple cake ($4), but the last piece had just been sold. The owner told me he bakes the cake from scratch.
The Sidecar Bar & Grille has potential and I applaud the owner’s honesty. Opening a new restaurant can be difficult. It is not easy to foresee which dishes will sell and which will not. I suspect since patrons are supporting the Sidecar, inspiring additions might be made to the menu.
One-and-a-half tips of the toque to the Sidecar Bar & Grille.
The Sidecar Bar & Grille
22nd and Christian streets
215-732-3429
Lunch and dinner served from 11 a.m. to 2 a.m.
Cash only
Restaurant is not wheelchair accessible
