Coming home to rooster

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Coq au vin is a lusty peasant dish from Burgundy made with chicken, mushrooms, pearl onions and red wine. Julia Child once wrote, "coq au vin is probably the most famous of all French chicken dishes."

I have not made coq au vin since last winter. Now that the weather is cool, it’s the perfect time to get this dish going again.

"Coq" means "rooster" in French. The original recipe calls for a rooster, but there’s no place we could find one in Philadelphia. A cut up chicken or breasts and thighs fills the bill nicely.

I usually use a Cotes du Rhone or Pinot Noir in this recipe. Have a few bottles on hand, because you will drink the same wine used in preparing the dish.

It is important to thicken the sauce right before serving. Many years ago, French women would use the rooster’s blood to do so. Today we concoct a beurre manie, or a mixture of flour and butter. If you liked playing with Play-Doh as a child, you will love kneading a beurre manie.

Coq au vin is a good dinner-party dish. You can make it ahead of time and reheat. Begin with a green salad and serve a loaf of French bread. A platter of fruit and cheese completes the meal nicely.

Coq au Vin

Ingredients:
2 whole chicken breasts on the bone, split and wiped dry with paper towels
4 chicken thighs, wiped dry with paper towels
1/2 pound of bacon, cut into 1-inch dice
2 tablespoons each of butter and olive oil
Flour, for dredging
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
1 pint of pearl onions
20 large white button mushrooms, wiped cleaned and diced
1/4 cup of Cognac or brandy
1 bottle of red wine
3 cups of beef stock
1 heaping tablespoon of tomato paste
3 fat cloves of garlic, minced
1 large bay leaf
2 sprigs of fresh thyme
2 tablespoons of softened butter
2 tablespoons of flour

Directions:

In a large flame-proof or enamel on cast-iron casserole dish, crisp the bacon over medium heat. Remove with a slotted spoon. Add the butter and oil. Turn off the heat.

Dredge each piece of chicken in the flour, shaking off the excess. Sprinkle each with the salt and pepper.

Raise the casserole dish’s heat to medium-high. Saut� the chicken until golden brown, about 10 minutes, turning once. Remove to a platter.

Place the onions and mushrooms in the casserole dish. Saut� on medium heat just until the mushrooms give up their liquid; add a tablespoon of butter if the ingredients look dry. Remove with a slotted spoon.

Place the chicken back into the pot. Pour in the Cognac or brandy and ignite so the chicken will flamb�. When the flames subside, add the remaining ingredients, except the butter and flour. Bring to a boil, then lower the heat and simmer for about 45 minutes, depending on the thickness of the chicken. When the chicken is done, remove from the heat.

Knead the butter and flour together. Add to the pot and combine well. Gently simmer a few more minutes. If the sauce is not thick enough, add another tablespoon of butter kneaded with another tablespoon of flour.

Serves six to eight.

Note from Phyllis: If using fresh pearl onions, place in a pot of boiling water to loosen their skins. Run under cold water then peel them. You also can use jarred or frozen ones.

I like to serve coq au vin with boiled potatoes or egg noodles. The cheese selection is up to you. Offer a blue, such as Roquefort, Morbier or Camembert. Sliced apples and pears are a fine marriage with cheese.

Salad with Coq au Vin

Ingredients:
1 head each of escarole, frisee and radicchio, washed and torn into pieces
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
1/2 cup of olive oil
Juice of 1 lemon

Directions:

Place the salad greens in a serving bowl. Add the salt and pepper.

In a small bowl, whisk the oil and lemon juice together. Pour over the salad and toss well.

Serves four to six.

Note from Phyllis: You can substitute red wine vinegar or sherry vinegar, to taste; about two to three teaspoons would be the correct amount.

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