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South Philadelphia’s newest restaurant is Malone’s Bar and Back Room Café. It’s been open for lunch and dinner for several weeks, so I thought Edward and I should try it.
Located at the corner of 18th and Ritner streets, Malone’s is a very casual bar with a small dining room with seating for a dozen or so. There is no atmosphere to speak of, but our server was delightful, answered our questions and cheerfully said "yes" to our requested substitutions.
The bar menu is very reasonably priced. Martinis are $5, a glass of Pinot Grigio or Merlot just $4. Edward and I sipped our drinks, listened to Frank, Dean and Rosemary on the sound system and discussed the menu.
The menu held no surprises. It is an old-fashioned South Philly Italian-American with fare frozen in time from the 1950s. Specials are listed with prices on a blackboard.
We nibbled on complimentary roasted sweet and hot peppers and some sesame seed bread. A cruet of olive oil stood on each table.
Edward asked about the vegetable medley appetizer ($6.95). Our server told us it contained zucchini and other squash, but "we can substitute some asparagus for you," she said with a smile. With that, Edward received a good-sized platter of fresh, pencil-thin asparagus, florets of fresh broccoli and sliced red tomatoes. Each fresh vegetable was coated in crumbs and fried in olive oil. A bowl of marinara dipping sauce, which I found tasty, arrived with the dish
The appetizer list is small, just five items. So I tried the mussels ($6.95) in white sauce. Although the mussels were not gritty, they lacked flavor. I found the broth a little greasy even though it was studded with slices of roasted garlic that imparted a slightly sweet flavor. Some fresh chopped parsley would have added a tasty touch.
The chicken and veal dishes are interchangeable. For example, chicken Parmesan is on the menu, but veal Parmesan is not. Malone’s has a policy printed on the menu stating if there is something you would like, but don’t see, please ask for it: "We will do our best to accommodate you." This is a notable practice. If the chef has the ingredients for a requested dish, it will be prepared.
I noticed chicken rollatini made with prosciutto, provolone and broccoli rabe ($11.95). I asked our server if I could have this made with veal.
"Of course you can," she responded.
The veal rollatini ($14.95) consisted of four, nice-sized pieces of pounded veal, stuffed with prosciutto and much-too-much provolone. Bits of broccoli rabe were on the plate and topped with way too much brown sauce, which was a bit greasy and on the salty side. The veal was a bit overcooked and imported Prosciutto di Parma would have fared better. Thick slices of white mushrooms topped the meal. I thought the mushrooms added little to the dish.
Entrees come with a side of pasta, such as spaghetti, penne, angel hair or linguine, or a vegetable. A good-sized bowl of linguine in olive oil, studded with slices of roasted garlic, arrived with dinner. I liked it better than the veal.
Veal Milanese ($14.95) is described as "thin, cut veal topped with broccoli rabe, roasted peppers and sharp provolone." It is always wise to ask questions when you see a dish described this way as it is not veal Milanese. Veal Milanese is a veal cutlet, coated in seasoned crumbs, quickly sautéed and topped with raw arugula and shards of Parmesan.
Edward asked our accommodating server if he could have the broccoli rabe and peppers on the side. She happily obliged. His platter contained several slices of veal, which were coated in crumbs and fried. Slices of sharp provolone were placed on top of the veal, which was then quickly run under the broiler so the cheese could melt. I thought the veal was tasty, but slightly overcooked. The roasted potatoes, however, were scrumptious. They arrived piping hot, as well as crispy on the outside and a bit creamy on the inside.
We were ready for dessert ($5) – an ice cream bombe made with nuts – but, unfortunate for us, our server told us there wasn’t any left.
Service was excellent. When we finished our roasted peppers, she brought us another dish without asking.
The menu should be modernized. Many of the dishes contain unnecessary ingredients, which added little in taste and texture. Fresh herbs also would be a welcome addition. However, fresh vegetables are used here.
One-and-a-half tips of the toque to Malone’s Bar and Back Room Café.
Malone’s Bar and Back Room Café
18th and Ritner streets
215-334-2197
Open for lunch and dinner
Cash only
Wheelchair-accessible
