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The political debates on television are endless. There is debate about a bull or bear market and then there is the debate about the question of the day: Are we heading into a recession?
It’s always a good idea to head to Chinatown when the economy is iffy. Most of the restaurants are moderately priced and welcome families. My favorites are David’s Noodle House, Vietnam and the delightful Ong’s, which I reviewed last January. Although regional Chinese cuisine brings a smile, Vietnamese fare tops my list.
Ly Michael’s, named for its owner, opened in Overbrook Park sometime during the 1990s and word quickly spread the Vietnamese-born proprietor served dishes other than egg rolls, shrimp in lobster sauce and chow mein. Within the past few years, Ly moved his eatery to Chinatown and I had to try it.
My cousin Carl and I first noticed the happy hour blackboard outside. Inside, a number of young people were at the bar, watching sports or the National Geographic station on plasma TVs.
"How about a $3 Cosmopolitan?" Carl said. This cocktail and apple martinis were happy-hour specials. The bartender fixed us perfect cosmos served in small, individual cocktail shakers.
"All appetizers are 20 percent off," the bartender, a friendly young woman who knew the regulars enjoying draft pints for $2 or glasses of wine, said.
Asian starters and soups form the best parts of lunch and dinner for me. Carl and I sampled three: summer rolls ($4.95), golden pouches ($5.95) and duck dumplings ($6.95).
Summer rolls are a Vietnamese classic. They are fashioned from thin rice paper and stuffed with cool thin noodles, shredded pork, herbs and shrimp. We received two long, plump, well-made rolls. Carl and I particularly enjoyed the creamy peanut sauce, topped with finely chopped peanuts, for dipping.
Golden pouches are sometimes called beggar’s purses. As was the case with the summer rolls, the wrappers were rice paper, but filled with seasoned ground shrimp and tied up with a slender thread of green scallion. Four came to an order along with a sweet chili dipping sauce.
The duck dumplings are an original at Ly Michael’s and a nice change from the pork and vegetarian variety served at a number of Asian restaurants. The filling was minced duck breast, meaty shiitakes and shallots that imparted a fine flavor contrast. They were steamed and served in a light brown sauce.
The bartender helped us select a beer to go with dinner. Samuel Adams produces a cherry wheat beer, which we both liked. We headed over to a table by the window for the rest of our meal.
Cold evenings need rich hot soup brimming with Far East ingredients to warm up. Our waiter advised us we could choose from the lunch menu as well.
Lemongrass soup ($4.95) was disappointing. The broth was as dreary as a winter night. It should have had a hot-and-sour flavor, but all we could taste was the sickly sweet addition of pineapple chunks, which ruined the lemongrass taste. A few small rubbery shrimp and mushrooms were included.
Pho is my favorite way to begin a meal. These classic Vietnamese soups are served in big bowls and people are encouraged to share. Our waiter brought over a ladle so we could serve ourselves. I remembered the marvelous meatball pho I enjoyed at Ong’s last year and, since Carl never tasted it, we went for it ($6.50 at lunch, $8.50 at dinner). It was worse than the lemongrass soup. The broth looked like dishwater, and worse, it was absolutely tasteless. The meatballs looked like slices of sausage, while rice noodles sulked at the bottom of the serving bowl. We received a platter of basil (which had seen better days), bean sprouts, a few lime wedges and sliced hot peppers to add to the soup, but none of them did the trick.
Next up was a seafood medley ($18.95) I found inedible. A few small rubbery shrimp, some thin scallops, green New Zealand mussels, which were so chewy I could not swallow the first bite, were tossed in a slightly spicy basil sauce. Sliced mushrooms, onions and snow peas rounded out the dish. The menu states salmon is a part of this offering, but it was missing.
Ly Michael’s appetizers were tasty, but, after that, it was downhill. The happy hour, which is Mondays through Fridays from 4 to 6:30 p.m., is a bargain. Just order a bunch of appetizers and make that dinner.
One tip of the toque to Ly Michael’s.
Ly Michael’s
101 N. 11th St., between Arch and Cherry streets 215-922-2688
Credit cards accepted
