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There are a number of requirements that make for a competent restaurant critic. The person must have a good appetite, not be picky and believe there is a first time to try anything.
The question I put to you dear reader, is this: "Did I truly want to sample a beer that tastes like chocolate, raisins and prunes?"
Cousin Carl and I were sitting in the back room of Memphis Taproom when a young waiter advised us about the beers, stouts and ales on tap. They are listed on a blackboard, but since I never heard of any of them, he described them to us.
"I’ve sipped rich red wines, which have had a nose of chocolate, raisins and prunes, but never a beer," I said to Carl.
I confess the Young’s Double Chocolate Stout grew on me. The first few sips were strange, but it did taste like chocolate. I found I enjoyed it.
Pubs and taprooms are popping up all over town. The beer is fine, but the food can run the gamut from English to Mexican.
Memphis Taproom is in Port Richmond. The weeknight Carl and I visited, the front bar was packed and nearly every seat in the back dining room was taken.
The menu features many fried items, but there is something for everyone. Carl and I began dinner with British beef pasties ($6). I’ve eaten them all over London. The ones here were freshly made and filled with onions and shredded beef brisket braised in a rich black lager. The pies were plump; the pastry, nice and flaky. They were served with a dollop of horseradish cream.
Roasted mushroom pancakes ($7) were actually Russian-style blini topped with a heady mix of wild mushrooms steeped in cream. They were tasty, but could have been hotter.
Hot is the word for the dressing in the beet salad ($7). Roasted beets have become ubiquitous. When a trend starts, it truly takes hold. These were roasted and tossed with toasted almonds and strands of delicate frisee. Carl and I took one bite and neither of us could take another. This delicate salad was tossed in a harissa vinaigrette that quickly prompted me to reach for my water glass. Harissa is a fiery condiment from Tunisia. A salad of this type calls for a classic vinaigrette. One of the waiters apologized and removed it from our bill.
A dish we both enjoyed was the fried hoagie ($8). (Stay with me and get the image of a hefty sandwich built with imported Italian meats and cheeses out of your mind.) This was an interesting creation that reminded me of New Orleans-style fare made with fried oysters. The plump mollusks were crisply fried, free of grease and juicy on the inside. The addition of applewood smoked bacon added a fine kick. In fact, I adore bacon so much a chef can add it to anything and make it tastier in my eyes. A small one-egg omelet was on the side of the plate. It was puffy and creamy on the inside. Carl and I thought the hand-cut french fries were too salty, though.
I ordered my cheeseburger rare ($8), but it arrived medium-well. A waiter whisked it away and brought me a freshly prepared one, which was more medium than rare but so be it. At least the beef was not overcooked. The patty was prepared with brisket and chuck, which is the best beef for a burger because some fat is needed before it hits the grill. It was topped with melted cheddar, slices of red ripe tomato and lettuce. My fries also were too salty.
Service was first-rate with several well-orchestrated waiters working the room.
Memphis Taproom is a place for beer lovers who want to enjoy a pint or two of unusual microbrews. Staff kept asking us if we wanted another, but one is my limit.
One-and-a-half tips of the toque to Memphis Taproom.
Memphis Taproom
2331 E. Cumberland St.
215-425-4460
www.memphistaproom.com
Credit cards accepted
