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Ah, barbecue. Just the thought of slow-cooked smoked ribs, brisket and pulled pork makes me hungry.
Philadelphia needs a good, family-friendly barbecue spot. Enter Kevin and Janet Meeker, who opened Philadelphia Fish & Company more than 26 years ago. They set the standard for fine fish and shellfish dining long before Striped Bass came on the scene. The Meekers, along with partner Tom Stewart, decided to transform Fish & Company into Q BBQ & Tequila. Stewart, formerly in the printing business, is a barbecue maven whose North Carolina roots were a plus, although he hails from South Jersey.
Their place is welcoming. The Fish & Company bar remains intact and the dining room has comfortable tables, cloth napkins and two televisions for patrons to enjoy a Phillies game. We sipped small martinis ($9) and discussed the bill of fare. In addition to barbecue, the menu offers sandwiches, tacos, quesadillas, tequilas and beers on tap.
Whatever barbecue you order, ask for it dry. Otherwise, the chef will brush it with a sweet sauce that may not be to your liking. There are three homemade sauces on the table already: Sweet, classic and a yummy vinegar-based one.
That said, Edward and I dug into big, juicy, tender, smoky ribs ($8) that would win any contest. They’re the best I’ve ever had north of the Mason-Dixon Line. I particularly liked the vinegar sauce.
We shared the wedge salad’s ($6) half of a crisp, cool head of iceberg lettuce and a few slices of tomato topped with a homemade chunky blue cheese dressing.
Sometimes Edward and I order a side as an appetizer. I’ve eaten fried green tomatoes down South, so I wanted to try Q BBQ’s ($5). They were greasy and topped with a squiggle of sauce resembling Russian dressing. I prefer them nice and crisp.
From the combination platter, I decided on pulled pork and brisket, which comes with any side ($14).
Although brisket is a classic in every Jewish mother’s repertoire, the barbecued version is nothing like the beef eaten during Rosh Hashana and Passover. This slow-cooked, smoked meat was so tender and juicy, it fell apart as soon as I cut a piece to sample.
The pulled pork was tasty, as well, but I found both needed a sprinkling of salt and pepper. I was surprised to see the pork and brisket served on two open-face slices of thick white bread. I believe this is called Texas bread, but I found it unnecessary.
The piping hot macaroni and cheese arrived in a deep, round ramekin. The white cheddar melted through the slightly al dente noodles and I liked the toasted bread crumbs added on top.
Edward ordered barbecue shrimp with sausage, cheese grits and collard greens ($18). It’s a good thing he asked Caylun, our delightful server who also is the Stewarts’ 19-year-old daughter, if the shrimp were served in their shell. (He does not like to peel and eat anything.) She said the chef would remove the shells before serving.
Although the medium-sized shrimp were cooked just right, they were on the cool side. The small piece of sausage was OK and the greens had a marvelous vinegar flavor, but, since they were buried under shrimp and sausage, their sweet sauce detracted from the greens’ flavor. The steaming grits were first-rate.
The pecan pie with bourbon whipped cream ($6) was disappointing. The crust was bland and not at all flaky. The not-too-sweet filling was not dense enough and the pecans had a mealy taste.
Service was excellent. The staff brought over a small mound of Wetnaps, along with fresh napkins. During dinner, Kevin Meeker and Stewart came into the dining room. Although I was recognized and we chatted, every patron received the fine service Edward and I did.
Q BBQ & Tequila is just what our city needs. It will attract those who hanker for good Southern barbecue.
Two-and-a-half tips of the toque to Q BBQ & Tequila.
Q BBQ & Tequila
207 Chestnut St.
215-625-8605
www.qoldcity.com
