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I had not dined at Paradiso since chef/owner Lynn Rinaldi brought modern authentic Italian cucina to East Passyunk’s restaurant row nearly five years ago.
The open and airy dining room has sunny yellow walls, white linens and hardwood floors. There’s a bar at the entranceway where patrons can choose from a carefully planned wine list or sip a cocktail.
Paradiso has one of the finest and most knowledgeable staffs in the city. They make recommendations and care for their customers.
Edward and I sipped a Montepulciano and discussed Rinaldi’s menu. She uses the freshest ingredients available, sometimes from nearby farms. Her dishes appear simple, but the complexity of flavors and textures is dazzling.
I prefer my oysters raw, but I was curious to see how Rinaldi would imprint her unique twist to classic oysters Rockefeller. Pan fried oysters ($12.50) were medium sized and although bathed in creamed spinach and topped with Italian fontina, they retained their plumpness and slightly briny flavor.
Edward never liked beets as a child because they came from a can. Ever since chefs have realized the sweetness of fresh roasted beets, they have popped up on menus all over town for the past 10 years or so. At Paradiso, Rinaldi keeps it simple and straightforward. Roasted red beets ($9.50) were paired with tangy fresh goat cheese and toasted hazelnuts. Three distinct flavors and textures comprised this antipasto and worked deliciously well.
During my 2004 visit, I fell in love with Rinaldi’s homemade pappardelle with rabbit ragu. All the pastas are homemade. Edward and I shared the fresh fettuccine with wild boar ragu ($16.50). The gravy had a slightly smoky flavor and its texture was akin to beef. The dish was light and all it required was a grind or two of fresh black pepper.
I immediately knew what I wanted for my entrée. My friend Thom, a lifelong resident of South Philadelphia, recently told me he was wowed by the tile fish at Paradiso. I have not seen tile fish on a menu in eons. It’s a thick, firm white-fleshed fish with a taste and texture similar with monkfish. Rinaldi’s version ($24) consisted of a good-sized portion from Montauk Point, which she seared until it was slightly translucent inside, served on a bed of creamy leeks and topped the dish off with fresh asparagus. The splendid, fresh herbs brought out the flavors of food. Serving fish on creamy leeks began at Le Cirque in Manhattan years ago. Luckily for us, Philadelphia chefs are doing it too.
Veal alla Milanese is among Edward’s favorites. Rinaldi substituted pork for the veal in her fine version of pork chop Milanese ($24). She took a hefty chop and pounded it thin. It was coated in seasoned bread crumbs, and sautéed until crisp and golden brown. It was topped with immaculately fresh and spicy baby arugula and sweet red ripe grape tomatoes. Some people like a vinaigrette on the arugula when a dish is prepared alla Milanese, but Edward and I prefer it straight. This way the greens mingle with the juicy flavor of the pork.
Service was excellent throughout dinner. Our wine was poured, our water glasses were filled without asking and our flatware changed for each course.
Edward and I noticed how many people were dining out on East Passyunk Avenue. Young people were tossing back shots of tequila and biting into nachos at Los Cantina Caballitos, Le Virtu was booked for a private party, Izumi was satiating the locals craving for sushi and Capogiro was scooping up its famous gelato.
Edward and I decided on a scoop of gelato, which ended a perfect Italian dinner.
Three tips of the toque to Paradiso.
Paradiso
1627 E. Passyunk Ave.
215-271-2066
www.paradisophilly.com
