Spelling it out

27136037

Our neighborhood bookstores are filled with new cookbooks just in time for holiday giving. The past few years, the focus has been on ethnic cuisine and comfort food. The trend seems to continue with 2006 releases.

Ina Garten’s fifth cookbook is "Barefoot Contessa at Home: Everyday Recipes You’ll Make Over and Over Again." Regular viewers of Garten’s Food Network show know she and husband Jeffrey live in East Hampton in a gorgeous home with huge vegetable, herb and flower gardens. The Gartens are Jewish, and enjoy roast chicken, chopped liver and brisket. They also favor French, Italian and American fare. The book is filled with easy, tasty recipes for cozy dinners and stress-free entertaining.

Ever since the ’04 Olympics in Athens, interest in Greek cuisine has soared. The newest cookbook favoring this fare is "New Greek Cuisine" by Jim Botsacos, chef of New York City’s celebrated Greek restaurant, Molyvos. The recipes feature easy-to-find, fresh ingredients that are turned into "mezedes" (marvelous bite-size appetizers), salads, soups, entr�es, side dishes and sweets. He also gives tips on how to stock a Greek pantry.

From the sun-drenched Mediterranean, the cookbook tour takes us to Harlem, which has rich cultural and culinary traditions. This acclaimed area has been influenced by African-American, Italian, Jewish, Cuban, Puerto-Rican and South-American people. "Harlem Really Cooks: The Nouvelle Soul Food of Harlem" by Sandra Lawrence is organized according to the four seasons and is filled with international comfort foods. The full-color illustrations were contributed by Benny Andrews, the renowned artist who died last month at age 75.

Finally, Italy is represented with "Giada’s Family Dinners" by Giada de Laurentiis. Although de Laurentiis was born in Rome, she grew up in California, where her passion for cooking was sparked by her mother and other family members. By her own admission, the cook wanted to create a book filled with unpretentious dishes inspired by warm memories of family dinners, and she did just that.

Parmesan-Roasted Cauliflower "Barefoot Contessa at Home" Ingredients:

1 large head of cauliflower, outer green leaves and stems removed

3 tablespoons of olive oil

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
1 cup of freshly grated Gruyere

Directions:

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.

Cut the cauliflower into florets. Place on a sheet pan. Drizzle with the oil and sprinkle generously with the salt and pepper. Toss well.

Bake, tossing once, for 30 minutes or until the cauliflower is tender and starts to brown. Sprinkle with the Parmesan and Gruyere and bake for one to two more minutes, or until the cheese melts. Season to taste. Serve warm.

Serves six.

Calamari Braisedin Tomato and Herbs "New Greek Cuisine"

Ingredients:

1/2 cup of olive oil
2 cups of finely diced onion
Pinch of coarse salt, plus additional for taste
6 garlic cloves, minced
1 teaspoon of dried Greek oregano
Pinch of hot pepper flakes
1-1/2 cups of canned tomato sauce
6 pounds of calamari, cleaned and cut crosswise into 1/4-inch rings
Freshly ground black pepper, to taste
1/2 cup of chopped, fresh flat-leaf parsley
2 tablespoons of extra-virgin olive oil

Directions:

Heat the olive oil in a heavy saucepan over low. Add the onion and salt. Cover and cook, stirring regularly, for about 12 minutes, or until the onion is soft and translucent. Uncover and stir in the garlic. Cook for another three minutes. Add the oregano and pepper flakes. Add the tomato sauce and increase the heat. Bring to a simmer and add the calamari. Stir well. Season with more salt and the pepper. Cover and bring to a boil.

Lower the heat and stir. Cover again and cook at a bare simmer, stirring occasionally, for two to two-and-a-half hours, or until the calamari is tender and the mixture resembles a thick stew. If it becomes too dry, add about 1/4 cup of water.

Remove from the heat. Fold in the parsley and drizzle with the extra-virgin olive oil.

Serves six.

Note from Phyllis: This dish is a delicious addition to the Christmas Eve seven-fish dinner.

Cuban Roast Pork with Lime "Harlem Really Cooks"

Ingredients:

1/2 cup of fresh lime juice
3 large cloves of garlic, chopped
1 tablespoon of dried oregano, crumbled
1/2 teaspoon of freshly ground black pepper
1 (4- to 5-pound) boneless pork loin
1-1/2 teaspoons of salt

Directions:

In a bowl large enough to hold the pork, combine the lime juice, garlic, oregano and pepper. Coat the pork with the mixture and cover. Chill overnight in the bowl, turning once or twice.

When ready to cook, bring the pork to room temperature.

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.

Transfer the pork to a roasting pan, discarding the lime juice mixture. Season with the salt. Loosely cover with aluminum foil and place in the middle of the oven for one hour. Remove the foil and continue roasting for 90 minutes.

Transfer to a platter and let stand for 20 minutes before carving.

Serves six.

Fusilli with Shrimp and Arugula "Giada’s Family Dinners"

Ingredients:

1/4 cup of olive oil
1/4 cup of finely chopped shallots
1 tablespoon of minced garlic
1/4 teaspoon of crushed, dried red pepper flakes
1 cup of dry white wine
1 pound of large shrimp, peeled and deveined
12 ounces of dry fusilli
3 cups of packed arugula, torn into bite-size pieces
Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

Directions:

Heat the oil in a large, heavy skillet over medium. Add the shallots, garlic and red pepper flakes. Saut� until translucent, about two minutes. Add the wine. Simmer until the wine reduces by half, about five minutes. Add the shrimp and cook, stirring, until they are pink, about two minutes.

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add the fusilli and cook, stirring often, until tender but still firm, about eight minutes. Drain.

Add the fusilli and arugula to the skillet. Toss to combine. Season with the salt and pepper. Transfer to a large bowl and serve.

Serves four as a main course, six as an appetizer.