Saucy switch

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Like many people, I have fallen into a pasta rut. I tend to prepare the same recipes again and again. Granted, now that winter is here, rich meat sauces or meatballs find their way on top of spaghetti or ravioli. But I’m craving a change.

I often let cookbooks guide me when I want to try something new or make a dish I have not enjoyed in years. I’m a fan of Giada De Laurentiis, who cooks simple Italian dishes on her show, "Everyday Italian," on the Food Network. I have both her books and have prepared a number of the recipes.

A slip of a woman who studied at Cordon Bleu in Paris, De Laurentiis’ dishes are authentic and many come from her family’s recipe collection. Her mother, who sometimes appears on the show, also is fine cook.

The younger is the author of "Everyday Italian: 125 Simple and Delicious Recipes" and "Giada’s Family Dinners." A book dedicated to pasta will be published in the spring.

A number of years ago, I enjoyed a dish with a sauté of wild mushrooms at La Famiglia, the fine Italian restaurant on South Front Street. I recreated it at home, but something was missing. (I found a recipe for wild mushroom sauce in "Everyday Italian.") Brown butter sauce is another tasty topping (particularly on ravioli), which I have enjoyed in restaurants, most recently at L’Oca in Fairmount.


Mushroom Ragu
(From "Everyday Italian," by Giada De Laurentiis)

Ingredients:

1/4 cup of extra-virgin olive oil
1 large onion, chopped
2 garlic cloves, minced
1 pound of mixed wild mushrooms, such as cremini, oyster or stemmed shiitake, chopped
1/2 teaspoon of salt, plus more to taste
1/4 teaspoon of freshly ground black pepper, plus more to taste
1 cup of Marsala wine
2 cups of chicken broth
2/3 cup of grated Parmesan
5 fresh basil leaves
1/4 cup of fresh flat-leaf parsley, chopped

Directions:

In a large skillet, heat the oil over medium. When almost smoking, add the onion and garlic and sauté until the onion is tender, about eight minutes. Add the mushrooms, salt and pepper. Increase the heat to high and sauté until the mushrooms are tender and the liquid has evaporated, about eight minutes.

Remove from the heat and add the wine. Return to the heat and simmer until it evaporates, about five minutes. Add the broth and simmer until it reduces by half, about 30 minutes.

Remove from the heat again and stir in the cheese, basil and parsley. Season with more salt and pepper, if desired.

Makes about 3 cups.

Serves four over a pound of pasta.

Note from Phyllis: This also is delicious with polenta.


Brown Butter Sauce
(From "Everyday Italian," by Giada De Laurentiis)

Ingredients:

1 stick of unsalted butter

6 fresh sage leaves, torn into pieces, or 1/4 cup of fresh basil leaves

1/2 teaspoon of salt, plus more to taste

1/4 teaspoon of freshly ground black pepper, plus more to taste

Pinch of freshly grated nutmeg

1/3 cup of grated Parmesan

Directions:

In a large, heavy frying pan, melt the butter over medium-high until pale golden, about four minutes. Add the sage or basil and cook until crisp, about two minutes. Stir in the salt, pepper and nutmeg. Season with more salt and pepper, if desired.

Sprinkle with the Parmesan and serve.

Makes 1/2 cup.

Serves four with a pound of pasta.

Note from Phyllis: De Laurentiis writes: "The sage leaves are more traditional in this sauce, but I love the basil also. If neither of these herbs work for you, feel free to substitute your favorite herb."


Penne with Spinach Sauce
(From "Giada’s Family Dinners," by Giada De Laurentiis)

Ingredients:

1 pound of whole-wheat or multigrain penne
3 garlic cloves
2 ounces of goat cheese
1 ounce of reduced-fat cream cheese
3/4 teaspoon of salt, plus more to taste
1/2 teaspoon of ground black pepper, plus more to taste
3 ounces of baby spinach leaves, plus another 3 ounces
2 tablespoons of freshly grated Parmesan

Directions:

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add the penne and cook, stirring occasionally, until tender but firm, about 12 minutes. Drain, reserving 1 cup of the liquid.

While the pasta cooks, mince the garlic in a food processor. Add the goat cheese, cream cheese, salt, pepper and 3 ounces of the spinach. Blend until the mixture is smooth and creamy.

Place the remaining spinach in a large bowl. Add the pasta, then scrape in the cheese mixture and toss. Add the reserved liquid to moisten. Season with more salt and pepper. Sprinkle with the Parmesan and serve.

Serves four as a main course and six as a side dish.

Note from Phyllis: Regular penne can be used in this recipe and you don’t need to use reduced-fat cream cheese.


Quick Marinara Sauce

Ingredients:

2 (28-ounce) cans of whole tomatoes in their juice
1 bunch of fresh basil, stemmed
1/2 cup of extra-virgin olive oil
2 small onions, finely chopped
4 garlic cloves, finely chopped
1 teaspoon of dried oregano
1 teaspoon of sugar
Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

Directions:

In a blender, purée the tomatoes and basil until almost smooth. Set aside.

Heat the oil in a large, heavy saucepan over medium. Add the onions and garlic and sauté until tender, about 12 minutes. Stir in the tomato mixture, oregano and sugar. Bring to a simmer over medium-high. Decrease the heat to medium and continue simmering until the sauce thickens slightly, stirring occasionally, about 10 minutes. Season with the salt and pepper.

Makes about 1-and-a-half quarts (6 cups).

Note from Phyllis: The sauce can be made a day ahead. If storing, cool, then cover and refrigerate. Rewarm over medium heat before using.

I used to doctor up jarred spaghetti sauce, but I find this recipe has a fresher flavor.