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Two culinary bombshells were dropped in New York City last week. Condé Nast announced Gourmet, which made its debut in 1941, would cease publication with the November issue and Chanterelle, David and Karen Waltuck’s highly acclaimed elegant Tribeca restaurant that closed for renovations in August, will not reopen.
Editors at The New York Times felt the demise of Gourmet so newsworthy, they placed it on the front page of the Oct. 6 edition. According to the article, chef Alice Waters of Chez Panisse almost "burst into tears" upon hearing the news.
Waltuck opened Chanterelle Nov. 14, ’79, and is the author of "Staff Meals from Chanterelle," one of the first cookbooks to highlight the behind-the-scenes of a restaurant.
Gourmet was the first magazine totally devoted to food and wine. Its glossy, full-color photography, advertisements for luxury trips and items, recipes, dinner party and home entertainment ideas and devotion to New York City and its restaurants has captivated readers for years. The reason Condé Nast decided to shutdown the publication was economic: Advertising sales were down.
The big four cooking magazines are Gourmet, Food and Wine, Bon Appétit and Saveur. I had a subscription to Gourmet a number of years ago because the publisher sent it to me as a professional courtesy. Saveur did the same. Bon Appétit, which also is under Condé Nast, is more devoted to recipes and cooking at home. Food and Wine is similar, but is a bit more upscale yet certainly not elitist. The fact that Gail Simmons, a judge on the highly rated "Top Chef" reality program, works for Food and Wine is an obvious plus.
Gourmet was always the ritziest of the food magazines. Yet when Ruth Reichl, a former restaurant critic for The New York Times, became its editor-in-chief 10 years ago, she tried to tone down the glitz and featured easy-to-prepare dishes, recipes for in-season ingredients and articles on the politics of food.
Today, in the world of cyberspace, people blog and share recipes online. The Food Network has produced superstar chefs some of whom, in my opinion, would do better if they remained in their restaurant kitchens than donning makeup and learning a script. Many cooking shows on television are pure entertainment.
When I read Chanterelle would not reopen, I was shocked. It was at the forefront of the American cooking revolution. For 30 years, people flocked to Chanterelle for the Waltucks’ French-inspired American bistro fare.
Sometimes I think Americans, especially those in large cities, have become obsessed with food and restaurants. They love to talk about the newest places, the next trend, which chef is cooking where and the increase in prices. Dining out, particularly in a place that is upscale or one that is the latest offering from a well-known chef or restaurateur, has become entertainment with the curtain going up as soon as patrons are seated.
Here is a recipe from "Staff Meals from Chanterelle," which is filled with dishes Waltuck and his staff enjoyed each day at 4:30 p.m.
Apple Oat Crisp
Ingredients:
6 medium-size apples, such as Granny Smith, McIntosh, Cortland or Winesap, cored, peeled and diced
Juice of 1 lemon
1 tablespoon of granulated sugar plus a 1/2 cup
6 tablespoons of unsalted butter, at room temperature
1/2 cup of dark brown sugar, firmly packed
1/3 cup of all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon of ground cinnamon
Pinch of salt
A few grinds of black pepper
1/2 cup of old-fashioned rolled oats
Directions:
Preheat the oven to 375 degrees.
Place the apples in an 8-inch square baking dish. Toss with the lemon juice and a tablespoon of the granulated sugar.
Place the butter, remaining granulated sugar and the brown sugar in a medium bowl. Cream with an electric mixer until light brown and crumbly, or about five minutes. Add the flour, cinnamon, salt and pepper and stir well. Add the oats and stir well. Scrape the sides of the bowl as needed.
Sprinkle the oatmeal topping over the apples. Bake until the topping is lightly browned and the apples are heated through and bubbling, about 45 minutes. Cool before serving.
Serves four to six.
Note from Phyllis: Do not use instant oatmeal in this recipe. You can serve the crisp with vanilla ice cream if you wish.
