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Joan Rivers is the queen of facelifts. I do not know how many times she went under the knife to correct her wrinkles and imperfections. She did have rhinoplasty, but I am not sure whether she ever endured Botox injections.
When a restaurant becomes a bit weary, it is a good idea to freshen up the interior and remodel the menu.
Audrey Claire Taichman and her business partner chef Kiong Banh did just that. They closed Twenty Manning, spruced it up, reduced prices and re-opened last week as Twenty Manning Grill.
My friend Dan, who works near Rittenhouse Square, joined me at 6:30 p.m.
“They are seating us in Siberia,” I said as the hostess led us to a corner in the back room. However, I did not mind. The dining rooms are awash with Van Gogh sunflower yellow comfortable banquettes, whitewashed walls, a white painted tin ceiling and hardwood floors. Although Twenty Manning Grill is casual, tables are set with linen napkins, which is a plus.
There is a well-stocked bar and wines can only be ordered by the glass. Dan and I sipped a Les Font Sauvignon Blanc ($9), which was a little grassy but not spectacular.
Banh’s revised menu highlights French, Italian and New American bistro fare. It includes pasta, burgers and potstickers keeping company with roast chicken and the dish of the day. We nibbled on fresh, crusty rolls slathered with butter and discussed the bill of fare.
Moules frites ($10) was a large kettle of piping hot plump mussels sitting in a light broth which was studded with red pepper flakes. These were French fries at their best. Not salty. Not greasy. I added a little salt. Dan and I finished them with ease.
We advised our server we wanted to share each dish. She brought two soup spoons for us to dish out the first course. The mussels were among the finest I’ve savored. I thought the broth needed more of a kick, such as more garlic and salt. Three homemade, crispy and long croutons were there for dipping.
Next up was iceberg and bleu ($7), a steakhouse favorite for me. Dan has never been to a steakhouse and never tried what some places call the wedge. The iceberg, which was topped with bits of bacon, was immaculately fresh, cold and crisp. We did not care for the dressing. Although there were chunks of Gorgonzola used in its creation, it had an odd tangy and sweet flavor which was disappointing.
One of my favorite pastas is Bucatini bathed in Amatriciana sauce. This simple dish is prepared with sautéed onions, some pancetta for crispness and a chili or hot pepper flakes. Dan never tasted it, so we decided to share. It arrived cold and the pasta was nearly raw. I like pasta prepared al dente but this was inedible.
Roast chicken is a staple of every Paris and New American bistro. The roast chicken ($17) was splendid. It was roasted just right and not a bit overcooked. A small mound of creamy mashed potatoes and fresh spring peas were included in what appeared to be a cast-iron pan. Dan and I would have liked to see some pan juices included in the dish but we both enjoyed it. Dan toted some home.
I sipped a glass of Crios Balbo Malbac ($10), which drank well with the chicken, and Dan selected a Castello Sangiovese ($9).
The noise level kept escalating during dinner. Twenty Manning Grill was filling up. I overheard an 80-something couple specifically ask the hostess if Taichman was in the restaurant.
Save room for dessert. We shared a berry cobbler ($5) which was uncommonly good. It was topped with a generous scoop of rich vanilla ice cream.
According to The 2010 Zagat Guide, if you dined at Twenty Manning, the average check was $43 per person. At the new Twenty Manning Grill, which opened a week ago, you will pay less for tasty, comfort fare.
Two-and-a-half tips of the toque to Twenty Manning Grill.
Twenty Manning Gril
261 S. 20th St.
215-731-0900
www.twentymanning.com
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