49681864
The 1500 block of Sansom Street is filled with restaurants.There’s a burger and milkshake joint, the Oyster House, which I believe is the finest fish house in the city, Nodding Head Brewery for inexpensive beer and bar food, Oscar’s Tavern where chefs go for an after-hours drink and nosh, and Ladder Company 15 and Marathon Grill at the end of the street.
A few weeks ago — after my favorite shrimp salad roll with homemade chips and iced tea lunch at the Oyster House — I noticed a new restaurant next door which was once a cigar shop. It’s called 1518 Bar & Grill appropriately named for the address. A waiter told me the place opened on St. Patrick’s Day.
The restaurant is a long, narrow room with a dining area in the front and bar with high-top tables. We nixed the front room because it was a cold, rainy night and we wanted to be away from the door. We sat at the long, black granite-topped bar and ordered three drinks, which came to $38. They were small.
A nosh was in order with our drinks so we sampled the hummus with pita ($7). It had a slight garlic flavor which enhanced the dip. Sandy tried it for the first time, but since she does not go for dips, her opinion is moot.
From the appetizers we selected the pork and lamb meatballs ($8.50), grilled romaine salad ($9) and mussels ($8.50). All three dishes cried out for seasonings, especially salt and pepper. I liked the texture of the two large meatballs, which were perched atop a pool of chunky homemade tomato sauce that also lacked flavor. Ground beef needs a bit of salt for tastiness.
The grilled romaine consisted of a large heart of lettuce that was grilled and topped with a homemade dressing made with Parmesan, fresh cracked pepper and fragrant olive oil. It needed a sprinkling of salt, but I found the salad crispy and nicely done. A large garlic crouton, or grilled slice of bread, came with the salad.
Although the menu states the mussels were Prince Edward Island, I found them scrawny and not as plump as they could have been. Sandy and I liked the broth, which was made with white wine, sautéed shallots, garlic and a hint of saffron. We asked for a spoon to pour the sauce over the mussels and bathe them well.
Unfortunately for us, the entreés were disappointing to the point of being dreadful. I’ve eaten short ribs all over town. My dinner ($18.50) consisted of a piece of tasteless short rib, which was a little on the tough side. It was braised in red wine, but needed more time in the oven. The roasted root vegetables that came with the meal were so overcooked that they were black on the outside and mush inside. The dish lacked eye appeal.
Edward’s lamb shank ($20) rated about a “C.” It came in a soup bowl with a scattering of chickpeas and topped with a red pepper puree packed with feta. Sound strange? Feta cheese and roast lamb do not make for a fine culinary pairing. Both the lamb and short rib needed seasoning so we sprinkled on the salt and pepper.
I took one look at Sandy’s scallops ($18.50) and instantly knew they could never rival the fine ones at Fond, Marigold Kitchen and any number of other restaurants we have frequented in the recent past. These were small sea scallops which had a bit of sear on them. They were placed on small dollops of celery root puree. All white food sitting on an all white plate does not dazzle the eye. A bit of a green vegetable would have been nice.
Lack of seasoning is disconcerting because sometimes salt and pepper cannot turn a dish into a tasty experience. All three entreés could have been hotter.
We shared a bottle of Malbac ($22), which was a fair price.
Since our dinner, I have walked past 1518 Bar & Grill during the lunch hour. They were neither filled nor empty. Soup, salads, appetizers and sandwiches are available all day and all night. You can order an entrée starting at 5 p.m.
One tip of the toque to 1518 Bar & Grill. SPR
1518 Bar & Grill
1518 Sansom St.
267-639-6851
49681869
49681854
