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Throughout my professional life, I have been fortunate to have been personally influenced by a number of people in the culinary world. Some, like Julia Child, Jacques Pepin and Barbara Kafka, whom I count as my mentor, (we have the same wicked sense of humor) are famous throughout the world. Some lived quiet lives.
One such man was the late John Cancelliere, who was personally responsible for introducing me to South-American cuisine and wines from Argentina in the mid-1990s. Until I met John, I never sipped a Torrontes or savored a Malbac. He once held a small tasting with representatives from the Santa Julia Winery at Volare, a restaurant he owned in Manayunk. Today, Santa Julia wines are served in my home.
He loved to play soccer and learned how to cook. He and his wife Dora raised their family in Philadelphia including son Pascual “Pat” who learned to cook from his parents.
More than two years ago, I read Pat Cancelliere had plans to open a restaurant on South Ninth Street in the Italian Market. The restaurant finally opened and it is called 943 simply because that’s the address.
The cash-only BYOB is a large open room with simple tables and chairs set with dish cloth-like napkins. Our young server opened our Santa Julia Malbac and poured it into juice glasses. My Italian friends would feel at home. Although there is a printed menu, specials are written on a large chalkboard.
The menu is a mix of South-American and Italian fare. A loaf of seeded bread arrived with a small dish of olive oil studded with finely chopped vegetables. It was a twist on classic chimichurri, the ketchup of Argentina. The tasty little fish were served in a gratin dish on a bed of mesclun.
From the primero we selected mollejas ($11) and gambas nueve de Julio ($12). The first dish was sweetbreads grilled with bits of bacon and served with chimichurri. They needed a dusting of salt and pepper. When eaten with chimichurri, they were a nice prelude to dinner. A sip of Malbac made them even better. The garlic shrimp were flavorful and sautéed with onion and a hint of saffron. Both antipasti were served in a gratin dish on beds of mesclun.
Pappardelle is one of my favorite fresh pastas. This entrée ($15) was a special of the day. There was a slight mix-up in the kitchen; our server thought we wanted to eat our pasta course with our appetizers. When the dish arrived cool, the chef prepared a fresh version and it was delicious. The pasta was perfectly cooked and topped with shrimp and calamari.
The beef empanada ($5) was disappointing. Although the minced meat was seasoned just right, the pastry was hard and thick like an egg roll wrapper.
The Merluzza de Francesco ($17) was supposed to be lightly battered hake sautéed with mushrooms in a lemon caper sauce. Edward and I could not detect any batter used in the preparation. We both thought the entrée was too salty. A few sliced potatoes and string beans came with the platter.
Because of the mix-up with the pasta dish, we were offered complimentary desserts. The flan tasted of much too much gelatin but the dulce de leche cookies were outstanding. The sandwich cookies were more cake-like in texture, filled with a creamy caramel and dusted with confectioners’ sugar.
I think 943 is the type of neighborhood restaurant you would go to when you don’t feel like cooking at home.
Two tips of the toque to 943. SPR
943
943 S. Ninth St.
215-925-0900
Contact the South Philly Review at editor@southphillyreview.com.
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