Hawthornes Café

June 30, 2011

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During the long winter months of Edward’s convalescence after serious ankle surgery, I relied upon the kindness of our neighbors, Cliff and Gloria. Last week, I called Gloria who was off to the Italian Market. I asked if she wanted some company.

She picked me up and off we went. I found Jersey blueberries for $2 a pint and four big and juicy lemons for $1.

It was high noon, and my stomach clock went off. “Let’s have lunch,” I said. We drove up Ninth Street and around Bella Vista when I spotted the green awnings over Hawthornes at the corner of 11th and Fitzwater.

The cool air from the ceiling fans was most welcoming on a hot sunny day. We sat down, sipped Schuylkill punch from Mason jars and looked over the inviting menu.

I don’t know why, but Hawthornes reminds me of a restaurant on Martha’s Vineyard. It has high ceilings, hardwood floors, area rugs and a winning staff that takes care of your every need with courtesy and a smile. The array of beers from America and around the world is dazzling. You may help yourself from the large cool cases and Hawthornes also offers beers on tap.

The iced tea ($2.50) was obviously homemade and hit the spot. I like strong unsweetened tea with lemon.

The Mediterranean salad with chicken ($13) was a Mount Etna of goodness on a plate. It contained mixed greens and a fresh medley of diced tomatoes, cucumbers, red onion, creamy feta, artichoke hearts, roasted red peppers and white bean salad tossed in a light vinaigrette.

“I can’t eat all of this,” Gloria said repeatedly as she tried to make a dent in her lunch. “I’ll take it home for Cliff.”

My turkey BLT ($10) was outstanding. There is nothing better than perfectly roasted turkey breast thinly sliced and piled high on multigrain bread with a house-smoked slab of bacon, Brie, romaine and sliced plum tomatoes. I loved the herb mayonnaise so much I tossed the calories to the wind and asked for more. Homemade potato chips, which you can buy for a buck a bag, and a dill pickle spear came with lunch.

I loved Hawthornes so much, Edward and I went for Sunday brunch. As people brunched outside, Edward looked for a parking spot and I gave a made-up name to the hospitable host who offered me a mug of coffee while we waited. It gave me the chance to study the beers Hawthornes stocks.

A true French omelet ($8) was golden and creamy inside. I chose asparagus, cheddar and diced ham as my three fillings. The chicken, who gave up her eggs for this masterpiece, must be strutting with pride. I loved the small diced potatoes — nice, brown and redolent of fresh rosemary — and tiny diced tomatoes. A side of bacon ($2.50) topped off brunch.

Two women could have shared the three big and fluffy pancakes ($7) topped with real maple syrup although Edward downed them with ease. Two plump grilled sausages ($2.50) were redolent with sage. I should have asked our server which brand was used. A big side of fresh fruit — blueberries, strawberries and melon came with the pancakes.

Proprietors Chris Fetfatzes and Heather Annechiarico have assembled a perfect place — a haven for the hungry who appreciate tasty, fresh fare and a marvelous staff.

Three extraordinary tips of the toque to Hawthornes Café. SPR