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On a brutally hot July afternoon, Chef Pierre Calmels arrived in my kitchen cradling a lobe of Hudson River Valley foie gras and a container of figs. Calmels and his wife Charlotte own the delightful Bibou, a Passyunk Square BYOB.
He was about to teach me how to clean and prepare a terrine of foie gras.
“Seared figs are delicious with foie gras,” he said as he pulled a sauté pan from my drawer.
My friend, chef Christopher Thames, was on hand to watch and enjoy Calmel’s delicious culinary magic. Chris nipped over to Whole Foods for a baguette and some water biscuits to enjoy with the foie gras and naturally sweet figs.
I forgot how delicious and nutritious figs are until I received a full-color calendar from the California Fig Advisory Board. I received a copy because California fig growers support Les Dames d’Escoffier, an interntional nonprofit for women in the food, wine and hospitality industries. I’ve been a member for many years.
I learned California produces 100 percent of America’s dried figs and 98 percent of fresh figs. Although we can buy dried figs 12 months a year, fresh ones are in season from mid-May through December.
There are five major varieties of California fresh figs: black mission are available dried and fresh. They have a purple and black skin with a deep earthy profile like a fine cabernet sauvignon; calimyrna are available fresh and dried. They have a pale yellow skin and a nutty taste like chardonnay; kadota are available fresh and dried and have a creamy amber skin with a light flavor like a sauvignon blanc; brown turkey are available fresh only. They have a light purple skin with a robust flavor like a pinot noir and sierras which are available dried and fresh. They have a light-colored skin with fresh sweet notes like a Riesling.
Seared Fresh Black Mission Figs
Ingredients:
6 fresh California black mission figs, cut in half lengthwise
Fine granulated sugar as needed
Olive oil as needed
6 ounces of Brie, sliced
Crisp fried bacon, for garnish
6 slices of baguette or crackers
Directions:
Sprinkle the figs very lightly with the sugar. Lightly coat the bottom of a frying pan with the oil. Heat until very hot. Arrange the fig halves, cut side down, in the pan and sear for about two minutes. Cool and arrange cut side up on baguette slices or crackers and top with the Brie and bacon.
Serves six.
Mediterranean Fig Chutney
Ingredients:
1 tablespoon of olive oil
1 small onion, thinly sliced
1 teaspoon of butter
2 tablespoons of brown sugar
1 teaspoon of balsamic vinegar
1 cup of dried California mission figs, quartered
1 cup of dried California calimyrna figs, quartered
1 750-milliliter bottle of port wine
1/2 cup of pitted Kalamata olives, sliced
Juice of 1 navel orange
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
2 tablespoons of fresh oregano leaves, chopped
Directions:
Heat the oil in a heavy saucepan over medium. Add the onion and sauté for about one minute. Add the sugar and vinegar, lower the heat and cook, stirring frequently for about 20 minutes. The onions should be very soft, caramelized and jam-like.
Stir in figs and wine, heat to a boil and simmer, stirring frequently with a wooden spoon until the liquid is reduced by one-half and is very syrupy.
Stir in the olives and orange juice. Simmer for five minutes. Season to taste with the salt and pepper.
Pour the chutney into a storage container. Cool to room temperature. Add the oregano leaves, cover and store in the refrigerator.
Serve the chutney with cheese or as a side dish for duck, lamb or chicken.
Serves eight.
Note from Phyllis: You may substitute any dry red wine for the port in this recipe. A cabernet sauvignon is a good choice. If you do not have sea salt, use kosher salt. SPR
Contact the South Philly Review at editor@southphillyreview.com.
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