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Rosh Hashana, the Jewish New Year, begins at sundown on Sept. 28. It’s late this year considering the holiday began in the sweltering heat two days after Labor Day last year. Jews around the world follow the lunar calendar, which is why our holidays fall on different days from year-to-year.
I have decided to write a two-part column featuring Rosh Hashana recipes from around the world. Some are not gleaned from Jewish cookbooks, but they are celebratory dishes that are kosher and can be enjoyed by all.
My grandmother made the best sweet and sour meatballs. She always used ground chuck mixed with ground veal. She made them very small and served them with chicken livers in a rich tomato sauce as an appetizer. Slices of the round saffron-colored challah are the perfect implement for dipping. At Rosh Hashana, challah, the braided egg bread, is baked round as a symbol of the creation of the universe.
Apples and honey also take pride of place on the holiday dinner table. Guests dip sliced apples into honey to wish everyone a sweet year.
Sweet and Sour Meatballs
(Polpettine Agrodolce di Gangivecchio)
From “Sicilian Home Cooking: Family Recipes from Gangivecchio” by Wanda and Giovanna Tornabene
Ingredients:
1 pound of ground veal
1 large egg
1 cup of fresh bread crumbs
2 tablespoons of Italian parsley, freshly chopped
2-1/2 tablespoons of pecorino cheese, freshly grated (omit if you are kosher)
Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
4 tablespoons of olive oil
2 medium onions, thinly sliced
3 tablespoons of red wine vinegar
1-1/2 tablespoons of sugar
2 tablespoons of water
Directions:
In a bowl, combine the veal, egg, bread crumbs, parsley and pecorino, if using. Season with the salt and pepper. Shape lightly into 1-inch balls (makes about 36).
Heat 2 tablespoons of the oil in a frying pan. Cook the veal balls over medium heat until brown all over and just cooked through, for about 12 minutes. Transfer to a plate lined with paper towels to drain.
Add the remaining oil to the pan and stir in the onions. Season with the salt and cook over medium-low heat until the onions are limp, for about 15 minutes, stirring often. Don’t let the onions brown.
Stir in the vinegar, sugar and water.
Return the meatballs to the pan and gently turn to coat them lightly in the sauce. Cover and cook over medium-low heat for five minutes, shaking the pan frequently. Transfer to a serving dish and cool.
Serve at room temperature.
Serves six.
Note from Phyllis: You can mix 1/2 pound of ground chuck with 1/2 pound of ground veal in this recipe. You can serve them in tomato sauce if you wish. The recipe can be easily doubled.
Tunisian Wine Squash Salad with Coriander and Harissa
From “Quiches, Kugels and Couscous: My Search for Jewish Cooking in France” by Joan Natha
Ingredients:
1 pound of butternut or kabocha squash, peeled and cut into large chunks
1 teaspoon of salt, plus more to taste
1 garlic clove, unpeeled
1 teaspoon of harissa (recipe follows)
1/4 teaspoon of ground coriander
Juice of half a lemon
1 tablespoon of extra-virgin olive oil
Directions:
Bring about 6 cups of water to a boil in a large pot. Add the squash, salt and garlic clove. Lower the heat and simmer until the squash is very tender, about 20 minutes.
Place the squash in a mesh strainer and squeeze the garlic out of its kin into the strainer. Mash the two together to get rid of any water. Transfer to a large bowl and stir in the harissa, salt, to taste, and remaining ingredients. Taste and adjust for seasoning.
Serves four.
Note from Phyllis: You can buy prepared harissa in specialty stores. It is the fiery hot condiment from Tunisia. This recipe can be easily doubled. Tunisian and French Jews serve this dish with couscous.
Harissa
From “The Book of Jewish Food” by Claudia Roden
Ingredients:
1/2 pound of dried hot red peppers
1 head of garlic, peeled
1 tablespoon of ground coriander
1 tablespoon of ground caraway seeds
1 teaspoon of salt
Extra-virgin olive oil to seal the paste
Directions:
Put on a pair of rubber gloves. Cut open the peppers and remove stems and seeds. Soak in water for a half hour. Drain and finely chop the peppers with the garlic and remaining ingredients in a food processor. Add 2 to 4 tablespoons of water, if necessary, to obtain a thick paste.
Put it into pots and pour in a little olive oil to seal the paste. Store in the refrigerator for a few weeks.
Note from Phyllis: Roden does not give amounts. Use small ramekins or small ceramic pots. SPR
Contact the South Philly Review at editor@southphillyreview.com.
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