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More than 10 years ago, a pub opened in Northern Liberties that was to change the course of city pub fare. Its name is Standard Tap.
I clearly recall my first meal at Standard Tap on a hot summer evening. Edward and I enjoyed a unique experience.
Edward and I recently returned to Standard Tap. I am pleased to report that the fare — from the grilled octopus to sausage and kraut — was a fine experience all around.
We dined at the bar where Brendan, the bartender, helped us to select a beer to go with dinner. After a few samples, we ordered a Yards Brawler, a dark, malty brew, which drank well with dinner.
The atmosphere at Standard Tap is still funky. There’s a lot of wood trim, a jukebox and upstairs outdoor seating.
Dinner began with grilled octopus ($13), which consisted of a generous portion of mollusk marinated in vinegar and grilled. It was slightly charred on the outside and creamy inside. The entrée was set upon a bed of nicely dressed greens and included pickled carrots and cauliflower. It set off a marvelous mix of tastes and textures.
Next up, was the duck confit ($15).
“We cannot take it off the menu because everyone asks for it,” Brendan told us.
I’m glad it is still there. A bed of fresh greens was dressed in a light balsamic vinaigrette. A hefty duck leg, which had been marinating in its own fat for a while, was nestled on the greens along with a crisp crouton. The skin was crisp and the meat was so juicy and tender it just about fell off the bone.
Autumn is here and the good chefs at Standard Tap have added bratwurst and sauerkraut to the bill of fare. Edward and I both adore it and this version ($17) was tops. A spicy, fat bratwurst and a delicious fat venison sausage were the stars of the dish. By fat, I mean they were plump, not fatty. The sausages were served in a round, glazed piece of earthenware — the kind found throughout Portugal. It is a marvelous cooking and serving vessel. The sauerkraut tasted homemade and the mashed potatoes, which Edward asked to be served in a separate dish, were the perfect tasty foils to this fall classic. I love creamy, hot mashed potatoes and rated these a 10.
I noticed mussels and sausages were on the menu, so was steamed clams. I was in the mood for clams so I asked if I could have clams in place of mussels. I am glad I did. My dinner ($17) was bursting with flavor. I don’t know how many top neck clams were in the earthenware dish — more than a dozen, I suspect. They were perfectly steamed in a flavorful broth, studded with white wine, natural cooking juices, chopped parsley and garlic.
I spooned on the sauce and made a trip to Portugal even though I was in Philadelphia. Slices of spicy chorizo were included, which added flavor and texture. Two thick slabs of crusty bread came with dinner. I toted much of the sauce home, including some chorizo, which I intended to turn into dinner with the addition of shrimp and sautéed peppers and onions.
This practice is not unusual for me. If a sauce is so perfect and the serving generous, I will take it home. I’ve done this on a few occasions and Brendan did not think it odd at all.
The all American desserts run the gamut from ice cream to a Philadelphia sticky bun. Although we were well sated, a sticky bun ($7) was wrapped to go for breakfast the next morning. I warmed it up, brewed some coffee and greeted the day with a smile on my face.
Service was excellent. Brendan entered our dishes on a computer and runners brought our meal to us as soon as it left the pots and pans. Each dish was freshly made and piping hot.
Standard Tap still sets the standard for pub fare. There are just a few in the city that can match it.
Three nostalgic tips of the toque to Standard Tap. SPR
Standard Tap
901 N. Second St.
215-238-0630
http://standardtap.com
Contact the South Philly Review at editor@southphillyreview.com.
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