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I have always enjoyed dining in cultural institutions. Minutes after seeing Seurat’s masterpiece “A Sunday Afternoon on the Island of the Grande Jatte” inside the Art Institute of Chicago, Edward and I lunched outside in the museum’s garden. I have taken tea at the Tate Gallery in London, a snack at New York’s Museum of Modern Art and a number of meals at the Kimmel Center.
In 2010, Stephen Starr took over the reigns at the Philadelphia Museum of Art’s restaurant. I don’t know how many meals I’ve eaten at the museum because I have been a regular visitor since I was a child. I was curious to see the menu Starr developed for this glorious Philadelphia masterpiece.
Granite Hill’s kitchen is in the capable hands of chef Joshua Evans. The staff is capable as well. They are a congenial group who see to your every need.
Granite Hill is open for lunch, Saturday and Sunday brunch and dinner on Friday evenings. Edward and I decided on Sunday brunch because it is my favorite dining-out meal.
The room is awash in dove gray with blond wood and white linen. Soft jazz was playing on the sound system. There are two brunch options: The Chef’s Table, which is a lovely buffet priced at $27 and the a la carte menu.
I sipped a superb Bloody Mary ($10) and took a close look at the buffet table. This was right up my Sunday-brunch alley. All the dishes are served either cool or at room temperature. Edward ordered the bacon and brie omelet ($15) with a side of roasted potatoes ($6).
Our server brought us French rolls with ramekins of softened butter. I sampled each dish on the chef’s table ($27) and there was something for everyone. Vegetarians would feel most comfortable with the offerings.
I began brunch with cubes of cool roasted beets and Brussels sprouts vinaigrette tossed with tiny bits of slightly sweet carrots. Some chopped fresh herbs were scattered throughout the sprouts. The charcuterie board included prosciutto di Parma, wedges of cheese, imported mortadella and salume. Cornichons and coarse Dijon are lovely accompaniments for charcuterie along with an array of crackers. I especially enjoyed the pate de champagne, which was wrapped in caulfat and prepared with seasoned pork.
No brunch buffet is complete without smoked salmon or gravlax. Gravlax is served at Granite Hill. It has a mild flavor and is always served with fronds of fresh fragrant dill.
Slices of cool, rare roast sirloin were on hand for the beef lovers along with chicken roulade and a lovely arctic char sitting on a bed of lentils. Quinoa tossed with pomegranate seeds was so tasty, I decided to try this dish at home. French green beans, spicy arugula salad with shards of Parmigianno-Reggiano and a bowl of mixed berries completed my brunch.
Three tips of the toque to Evans. He executed a perfect golden rolled-like-a-carpet plump baveuse French omelet, which was filled with thinly-sliced bacon and brie that melted as soon as my fork made its impact. Chefs must respect the egg. It is a glorious ingredient, but many allow it to overcook and become rubbery and brown. The potatoes were piping hot and crisp. All they required was a sprinkling of salt. A good-sized mound of salad greens came with the omelet.
illy coffee ($2.50) was rich and strong, just like the Italians prefer it. Desserts are irresistible at Granite Hill. We shared toasted pound cake with homemade vanilla ice cream ($9), a sweet fitting to end a lovely afternoon at Granite Hill.
Three tips of the toque to Granite Hill. SPR
Granite Hill
The Philadelphia Museum of Art
26th St. and the Benjamin Franklin Pkwy.
215-684-7990
philamuseum.org/dining
Contact the South Philly Review at editor@southphillyreview.com.
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