American Sardine Bar

December 16, 2011

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It was a dark and stormy night. A long-standing restaurant critic, her husband and big sister walk into American Sardine Bar at 18th and Federal streets. Seated at the bar is a congenial crowd lifting a few pints and nibbling on sandwiches, onion rings and fries. Every seat was occupied, which was fine with my sister Sandy, who puts up a fuss if she is forced to eat at the bar.

We found one vacant table for four in the back of this delightful new spot. We settled in and I read aloud from the limited but nicely planned blackboard menu.

I shall tell you straight away, dear readers, the harried waitress truly needed some aid, so Chef Scott Schroeder helped to serve soups and sandwiches to patrons and recognized me because Edward and I have enjoyed a number of dinners at the South Philadelphia Tap Room, 1509 Mifflin St. where he orchestrates fresh, seasonal ingredients with the ease of a maestro. That said, on to dinner.

We waited more than 20 minutes for big bowls of homemade, steaming soup that are heated to order.

Edward’s vegetarian cream of broccoli ($5) was brimming with bite-size broccoli pieces floating in a vegetable stock laced with the right touch of cream. Jewish chicken noodle soup ($6) was a triumph. It was almost as fine as mine. Unfortunately, there was too little stock and too many noodles, tender chicken shreds and vegetables. It was more of a stew than a soup. That’s when Schroeder came downstairs with two mugs filled with rich, hot stock and recognized me. Portions were so generous, I toted some home for lunch.

I sipped a Rob Roy while Edward enjoyed a pint of Stoudt’s.

I discovered a Pittsburgh cheesesteak is a cheesesteak smothered in cole slaw and French fries. My stomach turned as soon as I visualized it. Our server told me she would ask to have the fries and slaw served on the side.

My cheesesteak ($12) arrived smothered in the aforementioned sides. It was whisked away and freshly prepared. This hefty sandwich was a delight. The beef was overly seasoned to my taste, sliced thin and piled high on a long hoagie roll. Do not for one moment think you will receive inexpensive chipped steak beef — not that there is anything wrong with that. I thought the salt and pepper fries were too salty and contained way too much pepper but I liked the coleslaw. It was not swimming in mayonnaise. A slightly salty, crunchy pickle spear came with dinner.

You must order the beer-battered fried onion rings ($6). They were about the best you can get. Schroeder dredges thick onion rings into a flavorful beer batter and crisp fries them until golden. It was obviously fresh oil used in the frying process. All they required was a shaking of salt.

Pulled pork is a staple in South Philly pubs. We were curious to sample Schroeder’s version of this classic sandwich ($8). Pork shoulder spends some time in Walt Wit and is braised to perfection. I thought the use of boursin cheese as a topping was a little quirky, but you never know what Schroeder has up his culinary sleeve. I’m a purist and prefer sharp provolone. Edward found the pork too salty.

Sandy had a hard time choosing something to eat. She nixed a falafel, grilled chicken sandwich — and don’t think for a second she would take a bite of braised pork.

Our server told us the grilled cheese comes on marble rye. I love marble rye. The blackboard menu states “Jack Bosch Grilled Cheese.” I thought Jack Bosch could be a form of cheddar I never heard of. The sandwich ($7) was made with American cheese, which Sandy loves. It was topped with tomatoes and onions, which she does not love. The menu should have stated this. The caring manager asked Schroeder to prepare a plain grilled cheese. It was not Jewish deli marble rye, rather a square sort of rye bread.

All in all, I enjoyed dinner at American Sardine Bar, even though a few dishes contained too much salt. There were service glitches; this busy restaurant needs more staff. Obviously word is out that American Sardine Bar serves good food at moderate prices along with a variety of brews to suit anyone’s taste.

Two tips of the toque to American Sardine Bar. SPR